Six Finest Fall City Breaks in Europe for an Overload of Heritage and Excellent Cuisine
Athens
Rugged inlets and beautiful beaches comprise the resplendent mix that is the coastline of Athens. Thus at the close of an fall afternoon, I found myself with a quite pleasant dilemma: where to go to relax bones still aching for a last splash of warm weather. For this city offers something that other European cities do not: a coastline of more than 40 miles featuring beaches many a Aegean isle would covet.
Out of season, the coasts of the region still have a powerful draw, as I discovered when swimming into a dusk across the Vouliagmeni Bay. For those looking for rejuvenation in marine blue waters ready to turn orange pink as the sun sets, swimming off one of the Riviera’s accessible or exclusive beaches does not disappoint.
With ocean spray still on my skin, I sat at a local tavern, a tavern whose Mediterranean fare is as excellent as the breathtaking panorama of the inlet it overlooks. In a tribute to bygone eras, the appetizers is served on big platters.
Athens is as celebrated for its hills as its coastline: natural elevations within sight of the ancient citadel that make it a treasure trove for strollers when temperatures are cooler. For those who want to get away from a city that sprawls across almost 200 square miles, these stone formations – bearers of wonderful titles such as the Hill of the Nymphs and the Hill of the Muses – are a must-see.
In my opinion, this ancient capital is the continent's most soulful and sublime.
If you climb the summit of Mount Lycabettus, the city’s tallest peak, either by foot or on the cable railway, the reward is a stunning view of the entire gulf and the islands beyond.
If you want to stay centrally, the historic Plaka district remains the ideal location. The old-school a classic hotel hotel has doubles facing the north side of the Parthenon from about €140 B&B. In the same area, a popular restaurant is a favourite restaurant with residents and serves the juiciest lamb chops. With vistas of the ancient monument, Athens’ elevated dining spots are wonderfully atmospheric and perfect for mild fall nights – for a real treat visit a top restaurant or the Michelin‑starred fine dining establishment.
Palermo
Believe Neapolitan pizza is the last word in pizza? Think again. In Palermo they prefer sfincione, a soft, airy rectangle of dough topped with intense, onion-heavy tomato sauce and sprinkled with local cheese and oregano. Hearty, filling and cozy, it’s available in shops, kiosks and carts throughout the town (a central street in the old town usually has several vendors).
We sample it at a stand on Piazza della Kalsa, near where we’re staying. A local spot often has big lines, but they progress fast as young staff serve slices of the pizza, as well as rice balls and chickpea fritters. There are a few tables under the trees outside, but we dine as we walk into town along narrow Via Alloro. This is a pleasant stroll in October but wouldn’t be so in the heat. As heatwaves swept Europe this year, temperatures in Palermo topped 104F in the shadow. At the end of July one hot spot hit a record 70C at ground level.
We stroll the streets and enjoy how its long history is etched in its architecture.
Now, as the climate rise to 24C by mid-afternoon, we can wander the metropolis and appreciate how its long history is written in its roads. Passing baroque and art nouveau palaces, and Casa Stagnitta, the city’s first coffee house, we admire the Arab-Norman domes of the 12th-century church of San Cataldo; Piazza Pretoria, with its Renaissance water feature, installed under Spanish rule; and the grand church, constructed on the location of a ninth-century mosque.
On the way back we detour to the local market, the roots of which also date back over 1,000 years. Some criticize its commercialization, but it is still noisy and highly dramatic. Feeling brave, we pause for a traditional spleen sandwich, which is surprisingly OK, with its slightly sweet “meat” set off by cheese topping. The stallholder is especially pleased of his offal specialty but, unfortunately, no amount of seasoning can make those a treat for me.
We’re happy to head back to more peaceful the old quarter, the historic district to the east, which was damaged in the World War II and declined for decades before being revitalized this century. a boutique hotel (sea-view doubles from $175 B&B) is a four-room guesthouse with many attractions close by. Nearby is Palazzo Butera, a 17th-century grand building restored and relaunched in recently to house the Valsecchi art collection, which features works by Gilbert & George and Andy Warhol.
Next day we stroll a short distance to the city's Botanical Garden, with its notable multi-trunk fig tree. Songbirds are singing their hearts out as the sun pours down. Soon we’ll be in the UK, the clocks will go back and winter will begin. We enjoy a final days in the sunshine.
Vienna
While mourning the end of summer and hanging out at seaside spots and swimming areas on the tributaries of the Danube, I’m now seeking a new hue. Vienna is a city of green spaces and well-kept lawns, meadow sweeps and woodland belts, which exchange their emerald halo for a golden and yellowish tint the Austrians call Goldener Herbst.
I leave behind the grandiose architecture and old streets of the downtown. South-west of it, Schloss Schönbrunn Park extends from the grand Habsburg summer residence, where the gold isn’t reserved for the inside, and makes its way into pathways of tall bronzed hedgerows and arched tree terraces that lead to the bright building.
To the eastern part, in the city’s Prater Park, I walk beneath the shady trees of the Hauptallee, an avenue that’s almost five kilometers long and ancient. On the border of the park, the retro-styled Superbude Prater hotel (rooms from $85 B&B) is a ideally located retreat.
In a city with many city gardens (thanks to a dedicated effort to encouraging parks and fostering community spirit), autumn brings a abundance of seasonal ingredients on restaurant offerings. Pumpkin cream soup is the classic dish – best eaten in a wood-panelled pub such as the art-splashed Am Nordpol 3 – and accompanied by a Wiener Schnitzel.
The city is a place of green areas and gardens that swap their emerald halo for a golden and warm hue.
Little known, Vienna is the only European capital to produce vintage within its urban area, with 1,723 acres of vineyards. There are 14 official city hiking trails, known as Stadtwanderwege. Route one takes you through the wine country of Nussdorf. Relax in a slope wine tavern such as a local winery, sipping a zesty white wine with a platter (an assortment of cold cuts and dairy), while soaking up the beautiful urban view.
The hours are getting shorter, but now is the perfect time to wander among Vienna’s stately palaces, museums and old homes – a {cultural crop|