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I found with joy that the traditional Indian seasoning podi – a coarse mix of searingly hot, crudely milled spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s home-dried chillies, but it would be kind to say that I’m far less daring with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an exceptionally great marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

Prepare six to eight barbecue sticks (if bamboo, let them sit in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 min
Cook half an hour
Serves 2

14 ounces firm potatoes, sliced into four-centimeter chunks
8 ounces paneer, cut into two-centimeter cubes
One tsp coriander seeds
Half a tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, plus extra to serve
2 garlic cloves, prepared and minced
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
about 3 tablespoons flavorless oil
One red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then sliced across

For the dressing
Lime zest and juice, freshly prepared
10g fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
½ tsp flaky sea salt
100g natural yoghurt

Boil the potatoes for about 10 minutes, then remove the water and allow to air dry for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for a short while, then strain and blot dry.

Tip the cumin, coriander, and fennel seeds into a mortar or spice grinder, add the seasonings, then crush or grind to a coarse mixture.

Transfer to a medium-large bowl with the minced ginger and garlic, add the oil, then carefully mix in the paneer cubes, boiled potatoes, and onion wedges to coat. Thread the paneer, potatoes and onions on to barbecue sticks, then move to a sheet pan and keep ready – if you like, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Beat all the ingredients for the dressing in a medium bowl. Heat the grill to its maximum heat, then cook the skewers for a short time on each side, until the paneer is crispy and the potatoes are getting slightly burnt. (This may take a variable duration depending on the fierceness of your grill, so watch carefully, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, scattered with a little more flaky salt and the sauce on the side for serving.